Silent Sunday ...and Minerva

What a Shambles!

A few weeks ago The Shambles in York was named Britain's most picturesque street winning the Google Street View Award. The Shambles is a cobbled street lined with shops in overhanging timber-framed buildings, some dating back to the fourteenth century - the sort of place that the shopping street in Harry Potter might have been modelled on.

It was once a street of butchers and was known as The Great Flesh Shambles (from the Anglo-Saxon Fleshammels - flesh shelves) referring to the shelves that butchers used to display their meat. Some of the shops still have meat hooks hanging outside and shelves.

The Shambles beat the Royal Crescent in Bath and Grey Street in Newcastle, which came second and third in the poll asking people to vote for the most picturesque street.


As much as I like it, I don’t think I have been there more than a handful of times in all my years in York as I find it a bit too narrow and even daunting. Stonegate, also shortlisted, would have had my preference, being a Roman-Viking street lined with fantastic buildings from different ages and leading to the beautiful York Minster.

(A Google Street View of The Shambles)

Also, looking at the Google street view (above), they must've shot that at some ludicrously early hour of the day because most of us York residents avoid the Shambles due to it being completely mobbed end to end by tourists.

A Yellow Tribute

Clifford's Tower is one of the few remaining pieces of York Castle - it was originally the Castle's 'keep'.

To begin with the tower was known as the King's Tower. It was first erected in 1086 by William The Conqueror. This early castle was burnt down by locals who rebelled.

A second wooden castle was built, and in 1190 this was the location of one of the most horrifying episodes in York's history. Over 150 Jews were rounded up into the castle by an angry mob of locals, who had decided not to repay the loans which the Jews had leant them. Rather than be killed those inside the tower decided to commit suicide, some having to murder their own wives and children in the process. This terrible act also saw the tower burnt to the ground for the second time.

The daffodils all around Clifford's Tower were planted in memory of the 150 Jews of York who were murdered and this plaque commemorates this gruesome event. It reads:

"On the night of Friday 16 March 1190 some 150 Jews and Jewesses of York, having sought protection in the Royal Castle on this site from a mob incited by Richard Malebisse and others, chose to die at each other's hands rather than renounce their faith".

It has been said that the stone walls of Clifford's Tower have been seen bleeding blood, the blood of those Jews who lost their lives centuries ago and for this reason that some of the stones are permanently stained red.
[In more modern times, the bleeding walls have been written off to be no more then iron-oxide in the stone. But the legend is surely more fascinating and touching …]

The Vikings are in town...

"The year is 1069. The kingdom of England is in the grip of new Norman masters. Their castles rise up all over the countryside, dominating the landscape. The Viking menace from the north is just a distant memory. Or is it...? The disempowered Anglo-Saxon earls of the north have few friends to help them against their hated Norman overlords. But help is at hand from an unexpected quarter. King Sweyn of Denmark has followed in the footsteps of his Viking ancestors, landing in the Humber estuary and promising aid for Edgar Atheling, the teenage heir to the stolen crown of England. Sweyn, Edgar and their allies advance on York, determined to destroy the Norman castle and to wrest control of the city from William the Conqueror. The reconquest of York will open the way for the northern earls to battle their way south and perhaps to oust William entirely. But will Sweyn be true to his word? After all, what is the promise of a Viking worth..?"

From today until the 22nd February, it is possible to witness a truly international celebration of York's heritage, as Vikings from all over the world descend on the city for the JORVIK Viking Festival. Visitors will be able to witness the Vikings fight in ferocious and bloody battles, trade and commemorate their shared heritage. With over one hundred specially organised arts, music, drama and action events taking place over five spectacular days. The city is also treated to a range of public events including lectures, arts & crafts, encampments, river events, saga-telling, and full-scale battle re-enactments. It is an event for everubody. children and adults, history lovers and arts&craft fans. The only problem is that there are far too many people around for a relatively small place like York and if the weather is as gloomy and damp as it was today it can become a bit crowded. But it's worth watching even just an hour of the show around!

It's panto time!

Oh no, it isn't. Oh yes, it is!!!!

Last week my family and I went to the panto. I know, I know, it is probably a bit late for a panto now, but I can assure you that on a freezing cold end of January night, at one of the most depressing times of the year, there is nothing better to lift your spirits than the traditional York Theatre Royal panto which will leave you happily glowing with warmth and smiles.

Before moving to York I didn’t have the slightest idea of what a pantomime was. When mu husband explained it to me I couldn’t get excited about it. Cross-dressing, slapsticks, audience participation? How is this supposed to work on adults and children altogether? But the first time I entered the lovely York Theatre Royal and watched the traditional Berwick Kaler’s pantomime I was hooked for life.

Over the last 30 years York Theatre Royal's annual pantomime has reached cult status. Critics and the audience agree that it's one of the best in the country. It doesn't rely on star names to pull in an audience, instead it relies on a group of regular actors; 'the lad' Martin Barrass, 'the villain' David Leonard, 'principal boy' Vincent Gray, who has replaced Suzy Cooper, now an act of her own, and, in particular on one man, Berwick Kaler, the Dame.

This year the story was based on Dick Turpin, the legendary Highwayman. Dick Turpin, who rides his beloved horse Black Bess from London to York to escape the law and the evil machinations of Count Vermin De Vile (David Leonard). Clearly the script does not follow the story or the legend but tells the tale of two villains looking for pole position - Dick Turpin, nephew of Betty (played by Kaler) against Count Vermin De Vile. This panto is extra special as it marks Berwick Kaler's 30th year as the show's dame; and the ever-thwarted baddie, David Leonard's 21st.

You simply can not stop yourself from having a smile on your face from the moment the curtain goes up until well after you get home following the show. There is little by the way of plot, but this only adds to the fun which you might think is all chaotic and made up on the spot, but is in fact very well rehearsed and outstandingly professional.

The traditional Kaler’s ingredients: the water scene, the song sheet, the UV lit scene in the dark, the wagon wheels, Berwick's fabulous dame, David Leonard's pelvic thrusts and Martin Barrass' skipping are all there. However we also manage to catch up with some dancing leprechauns, a strong-smelling policeman, an Abba medley, an hilarious Amy Winehouse sketch and a “York’s got talent” contest along the way which apparently has something to do with Dick Turpin…
…And of course the legendary and heavily sought after Waggon Wheels thrown into the crowd before the end of the show. My daughter even managed to catch one of those and triumphantly showed off it at school the next day.

If you haven't been to a York Theatre Royal panto before then you don't know what you're missing, come along next year (usually from the middle of December until the end of January) to the show and you will soon feel part of Berwick's "babbies and bairns" family.

[Panto photos courtesy of The Press]

The Purple Man of York

Although The Purple Man of York had been featured before in other blogs (Ruby's York Daily Photo and the The JollyGreenP Images of York too) I could not resist to post this photo in his festive “theme”, ie. carrying Christmas gift whilst biking swept away by the wind of York. For £1 donation I was “allowed” to take this shot and even found out his name, Michael. He’s been entertaining in Stonegate for quite a while now and, although he changes his poses and themes every now and then, his main features are always his bike and the colour purple.

I do not think he can make a living out of his daily donations in the streets of York, but he is always nice and polite and jokes with kids and adults alike and has become a part of York tourist attractions!

Here is Michael the Purple Man in his summer version.

The Little Red Devil

Last Friday one of my dearest friends had a serious operation and I was very worried. To keep my worries at bay I decided to have a walk around York like tourists do. It is a beautiful town and I really love it, unfortunately, as it happens even with the loveliest things you see every day, you might end up taking them for granted. Anyway it was a nice sunny day so I took some photos.

My favourite street in York is Stonegate. Originally it was the Roman Via Praetoria and led to the legionary headquarters, the Principia. The street contains buildings and architecture of every period from the Normans to the Victorians. Its name means 'stone paved street' and for centuries it was associated with bookshops and printing. The Little Red Devil at Number 33 Stonegate is the sign for a printer's shop. Stonegate was once the centre of York's printing industry. It is said that it was not uncommon for the printer’s apprentice, who would carry hot type in the print shop, to mischievously re-arrange type for the printer.

Although not proven, this is the reason for the nickname a ‘printer’s devil’.Several years ago the devil was completely red, but this picture shows his head, beard and horns have been painted black. Notice how he is chained around his waist to the wall - is that enough to stop him causing any mischief?